Review #230: Orphan Barrel Muckety-Muck 26 year Single Grain Whisky

PROOF: 92

AGE: 26 yrs

COST: $200 for 750mL bottle

REGION: Lowlands

Orphan Barrel had three releases of Muckety Muck: a 24yr release in 2020, a 25yr release in 2022, and a 26yr release in 2023. Each of these features a single grain scotch whisky from the Port Dundas Distillery. When the distillery was first opened in 1810, it started off producing malt whisky. However, around 1845, Port Dundas started producing grain whisky and quickly became the top producer of grain whisky in Scotland and an important piece of many blended Scotch whiskies such as Haig, White Horse, Johnnie Walker, J&B, and many others. The Port Dundas Distillery was a powerhouse of a distillery and was producing over 39 million liters (10.3M gallons) of single grain spirits a year by the time it closed in 2010.

The Port Dundas Distillery was one of the original members that formed the Distillers Company Limited in 1877. In 1986, a controversial transaction resulted in Guinness acquiring DCL, and DCL was renamed to United Distillers in 1987. In 1998, United Distillers merged with International Distillers & Vintners and became the spirits division of the young and budding company (at the time) Diageo. But big businesses make big decisions, and in 2010, the year of the 200^th anniversary of the Port Dundas Distillery, Diageo decided to shutter the facility. Diageo used many of Port Dundas’ remaining stock to blend into their numerous other labels under the Diageo umbrella. However, some barrels were moved around the Diageo owned facilities and never used. As part of Diageo’s Orphan Barrel program, some of these “forgotten” barrels were turned into limited releases under the Orphan Barrel label Muckety-Muck.

Through the year, most of the single grain whisky produced at the Port Dundas distillery was used in blended scotch. A bottle of single grain whisky from Port Dundas stock was somewhat of a rarity. So finding a bottle after the distillery was closed is considered something special. Considering Orphan Barrel released the 24, 25, and 26 year releases of this label in fairly quick succession ending in 2023, I’m assuming the only remaining barrels of Port Dundas whisky (if any) will be reserved for releases that I likely won’t be able to afford. So, when I had an opportunity to pick up this 26 year Muckety-Muck for $200, I figured I would get it to become a special pour from my bar and savor it over the years – a remnant of a ghost distillery.

This is from bottle 8,426. Reviewed neat in a Glencairn.

APPEARANCE: A golden, tawny color (1.3); extremely viscous and oily looking with fat tear drop legs.

NOSE: A rich, sweet and layered nose. Werther’s caramel, a dark compote of dark cherry, raspberry, and nutty spice, and burnt vanilla beans greet me. A blend of coffee cake and dark chocolate give it a depth you can just sink into. After nosing this for a little while, I find brightness in the depths of it that struggle to see the light of day through the rich dark notes up front: crisp apple, pear, wildflower honey, and a sort of lemony Pine-sol note. I’d be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge the soft oak tannins that envelope the sweeter notes. (9.2)

PALATE: The mouthfeel fits the first note that I get: creamy butterscotch. Lightly seasoned oak and vanilla custard go hand-in-hand and remain consistent on the palate. The red fruit notes on the nose are not as concentrated, but still present. Cacao nibs, cinnamon, and toasted chestnuts join the fray and bring an earthiness that was fairly suppressed on the nose. (8.4)

FINISH: A long, earthy finish. Most of the sweet notes have faded while a slight caramel note lingers. That Pine-sol sort of note deep in the nose comes back very briefly right after the swallow. The toasted vanilla, seasoned oak, cacao, and cinnamon really hold on for a long while though with phantom appearances of dark cherries. (8.2)

RATING: 8.6/10

OVERALL: This is damn tasty whisky! The rich sweetness and red fruit notes make my bourbon loving heart happy. I really enjoyed the transition across the entire whiskey where the nose was very forward with dark sweetness and light on the earthy notes, and by the end of the finish, it was completely swapped with a dominant earthiness and faint sweetness – the palate being an excellent balance. For 26 years, the oak profile was perfect. It was a well seasoned oak, but light and not overly tannic. I’m really happy with how good this whisky is considering I intended for it to be a special pour in my bar.

 

1 | Disgusting | So bad I poured it out

2 | Poor | I wouldn’t consume by choice

3 | Bad | Multiple flaws

4 | Sub-par | Not bad, but many things I’d rather have

5 | Good | Good, just fine

6 | Very Good | A cut above

7 | Great | Well above average

8 | Excellent | Really quite exceptional

9 | Incredible | An all time favorite

10 | Perfect | Perfect