Review #269: Jackson Purchase Kentucky Select

MASH BILL: 70% corn, 20% rye, 10% malted barley

AGE: NAS (minimum of 4yrs as a Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey)

PROOF: 108

COST: $60 for 750mL bottle (Evergreen’s, Bardstown, KY)

Craig Beam, a seventh-generation Master Distiller, spent decades at Heaven Hill. After retiring as the Master Distiller in 2014, he had a brief stint “away” from the industry, but when whiskey runs that deep in your roots you can’t stay away for long. Terry Ballard spent two decades at Willett Distillery and was their head distiller before departing. In 2020, some Kentucky businessmen with connections to the bourbon industry bought the Jamieson Distillery, and a year later they hired Craig to come out of retirement, Terry to leave Willett, and, together, start up the Jamieson Distillery after renaming it to Jackson Purchase Distillery.

The original intent of this distillery was not to make their own brand, but instead specialize in contract distilling. After the slowing of the whiskey wholesale market, they took advantage of the power duo at the helm and Jackson Purchase decided to release their own label. Presently, there are 3 labels available of Jackson Purchase whiskey, each using a minimum of 4 year bourbon of the same mash bill and aged in char #4 barrels:

• Select Batch – a full proof expression
• Bottled in Bond – a 100 proof expression
• Kentucky Select – a 108 proof expression available only in Kentucky

Having made a recent trip to Bardstown, I was fortunate to pick up the last bottle of Jackson Purchase Kentucky Select that they had on the shelf at Evergreen’s (while I was there at least). Let’s check it out!

Reviewed neat in a Glencairn.

APPEARANCE: Russet muscat (1.3), a moderately oily appearance with slow legs.

NOSE: This has a sort of dusty, earthy spice with a mild sweetness that immediately suggests a high rye bourbon. Here’s an oddly specific note for you, but just go with it…dusty, varnished, cedar bookshelf. Peanut brittle with a dusting of cinnamon. Notes of vanilla beans and a touch of cherry coated in confectionary sugar brings sweetness. There is a consistent white pepper note that ties into the earthier notes mentioned previously.

PALATE: The mouthfeel has a nice oiliness to it and is coating. A herbal spice suppresses a few sweeter notes. Fennel, black tea, cinnamon, white pepper, and a musty, damp tobacco. Caramel and a touch of juicy fruits like apple and raspberry are buried under the herbal spice. A slight citrus note shows up late.

FINISH: Long finish that really continues the earthy spice of the whiskey. The proof and spice combine to make this a bit astringent right after the swallow. Tea and white pepper carry over from the palate and a touch of mint joins in. A hint of caramel and fruit from the palate lingers. As the spices start to fade, vanilla and a touch of oak carry this to the end.

RATING: 6.3/10

OVERALL: It’s unique and leans away from the sweeter profile of modern-day bourbons with a more earthy spice. Sweetness is present, but it struggles at times to rise above the spice and earthy notes. That is the primary reason it doesn’t completely resonate with my palate; however, the maturity of this bourbon is impressive for a 4-yr old whiskey. This makes me want to keep following along and continue trying Jackson Purchase bourbons as the age statement climbs. Because the mash bill and barrel selection isn’t anything too uncommon, the flavor profile here is quite unique and makes me think there might be something in the specific grains they’re using that helps make that distinct earthy spice I’m getting, but it could also be the environmental conditions they’re aging in considering they’re as far southwest as you can go and still be considered Kentucky. Whatever the magic is, I’m intrigued, even with the sweet tooth that I have.

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